(A brochure published in 1996)
By: Charles A. Hillestad
If you have not yet purchased or leased a particular property, the following is a guide to assist you in taking a look at it to determine if the asking price or rental is appropriate and whether future operational or maintenance expenses will be as anticipated. It should help you avoid surprises.
If you already occupy the premises, it is still useful to fully understand what you have acquired. Knowing possible safety or repair problems allows you to avoid risks, budget appropriately, and better determine valuation of the improvements for loan, estate, resale and other purposes.
This checklist does not pretend to be a complete list of all possible inquiries you could or should make, but it should give you a start. The desired answer for all the following is "No." If any are determined to be "Yes", consult with an expert as to whether it is serious and the cost to remedy the situation.
By the way, when doing the inspections, it would be useful to bring along a flashlight, a level, a square, a pocket knife, a regular and a phillips head screw driver, a marble, a notebook and possibly some matches. Ready to begin?
Foundation
1. Is the building or any improvements sitting directly on dirt or wooden beams? Modern construction techniques dictate it should be on a sturdy foundation of stone or concrete with sufficiently large footings to spread the weight. It is always possible though the property is a historic one or one where the original builder never bothered to get a construction permit. If the foundation is not appropriate, then it will very possibly be necessary to create a new one which is a major expense involving jacking up the entire house or office and pouring a foundation.
2. If the building is on a masonry or stone foundation, is the mortar very soft with a tendancy to crumble? This may or may not indicate a problem. In any event, look to see if there is any sagging. Serious sagging is almost surely a problem.
3. Is the soil level less than 6 inches from the top of the foundation? Insect or water damage may ultimately result if so.
4. Does the condition of the landscaping or the slope of the ground create a possibility of water pooling against the foundation? At some point, pooled water or water draining toward the foundation instead of away from it will harm the foundation. If the landscaping and the grading is fairly recent, it is relatively easily cured by adding dirt and changing the slope so water will run off. The pitch or slope should be at least a 1/2 inch vertical for every horizontal foot. If it is obvious that pooled water or conditions which allow water to drain toward the foundation have been there for some period of time, further investigation may be necessary regarding the condition of the foundation. Make a note to check the basement interior for leaks or deterioration of the foundation.
5. Are there any cracks in the foundation, particularly ones running up and down? If any are found, call in an expert to take a look. It is not uncommon for an old house to have cracks. Fortunately, whatever harm they caused has been long ago and the house usually will not deteriorate further. Nevertheless, it is a matter which should be investigated.
6. Are there any signs of termite or other insect infestation? Signs of termites would be their signature mud tunnels. Termites eat wood. Check all crawl spaces. Are crawl spaces inconveniently located by the way?
7. Does the property have any retaining walls? These are like foundations, for example, walls holding back soil on a slope and should be examined. If so, are retaining walls missing weep holes to allow for drainage? It is possible the drainage is buried tile. Make inquiry. Do any retaining walls show signs of heaving from frost or tree roots? Are any out of plumb?
8. What type of soil does the property have? Is it an expansive soil such as bentonite which might lead to cracks in the building walls or floors as the soil heaves when soaked? Ask if there has been a soil test. Ask to see it. There are construction techniques to allow for expansive soils, but it might be worthwhile to ask an expert if they have been done properly.
Exterior Walls
9. If the exterior is painted, is the paint coming off by blistering or peeling? This could mean either a poor paint job or a much more serious problem indicating a water leakage. In either case, scraping and repainting is not inexpensive.
10. If the exterior is masonry, is the mortar holding it together loose or missing? In that case, tuck pointing the joints may be necessary. Pay particular attention to the masonry behind and near the downspouts. If it's loose or missing, that may indicate downspout leakage.
11. If the siding is shingles, are they loose, missing or curling? Any of the latter those conditions can indicate problems. They should be intact, thick, straight and securely attached.
12. Is the condition of the caulking in the joints between windows, doors, change of surfacing, etc., or the putty around the glass in the windows loose or missing? If so, water will get in and cause damage or, at a minimum, cause windows to stick.
13. Are any decks, steps, railings, and decorative woodwork not tightly attached to the house? Do any show signs of rot?
14. If the building has vinyl or aluminum siding, does that cover a rot or structural problem underneath? If some siding can be easily removed to look behind it, possibly do so randomly to check. If you don't own the property yet though, be sure to get permission.
15. A vapor barrier in the exterior walls is important to prevent condensation. It the barrier there?
16. Are storm doors or storm windows missing? Do they fit poorly? If nothing else, this will mean larger heating and cooling bills.
17. Although almost no structure is perfectly plumb, that is the theoretical idea. Put your eye close to the wall and look down its length. Does it bulge inward or outward? Do the doors stick and are they out of plumb with their frame? A small "bubble" level or a square will assist you in your determination. Major bulges may indicate a serious problem.
18. Is there ivy or other vines climbing the exterior walls? This may be attractive, but ivy can cause trouble. It holds undesirable moisture against the house, not to mention attaching itself permanently by next to impossible to remove suckers.
19. Shutters or signs attached to the walls or roof can create similar undesirable water "dams" which do not allow water to drain off as it should.
20. Are there any missing ramps or too narrow doors for handicapped access?
21. Is there too little natural window light?
22. Do the windows leak water or air? Are the panes or mullions broken?
23. Are they single pane? Double would be better.
24. What is the condition of the surrounding molding on the windows? Check the sill for rot.
25. Do the windows stick? Or, do they fail to stay up when opened?
26. Are any hardware or locks or cords on the windows broken or missing?
Roof
27. If the roof is covered by shingles, what is their condition? Are they curling, loose or missing? Do they lay down rough and uneven? Are they worn or cracked? Are they broken? If they are composition shingles, are the surface grains looking sparse or worn? That will give some indication of the remaining roof life span.
28. If the roof is covered in asphalt, are there signs of sponginess, bubbles, separations or cracks?
29. Is there evidence of improper or poor roof drainage? Replacing the roof can be a very expensive item.
30. Is there more than one layer of shingles on the roof? If so, the next time the roof is replaced, the roofers will insist on stripping the existing shingles rather than over laying them thereby significantly adding to the expense.
31. What is the condition of the flashing around the roof valleys, chimneys, vents and skylights? Is it loose, missing, torn or in a deteriorated condition? If any is, make a note to check the attic interior for signs of leaks.
32. Are there any exposed nails in the flashing? Do different metals come in contact with each other, like copper and galvanized iron? That will ultimately lead to corrosion.
33. What is the condition of any skylights or TV antennas? Are portions missing or broken? Do they allow water to enter and expensively heated or cooled air to escape?
34. What is the status of masonry on the chimney and the flue? Does any aspect of it fail to meet Building Code? Are there any cracks, particularly that portion of the masonry below the roof?
35. Is there no tiled flue? Is it clogged? If it doesn't have one that meets the requirements of Building Code, you might not be able to use any fireplaces.
36. Is there over a 1/4 inch of creosote inside the flue? That could be a fire danger.
37. What is the status and condition of the plumbing vents? Are they in poor condition or too short for Building Code?
38. Do any vents not exit to the outside?
39. Is the roof sagging? If it sags, ask an expert if a problem is present and why.
40. What is the pitch of the roof? Is it not steep enough to allow snow and ice will fall off? If not, is the roof strong enough to hold the possible weight load?
41. What is the status of the soffat (that area under the roof that projects out over the walls) as it meets the exterior walls? Is it rotting or not ventilated to allow air into the attic?
42. What is the condition of the gutters and downspouts? Does the roof cleanly drain into them? Do any downspouts drain onto lower roofs rather than spill directly into other gutters. Or do any downspouts not drain well away from the building?
43. Are portions of the gutters or downspouts missing or broken? Are they firmly attached? Are any clogged and not draining properly? Are splash blocks missing? How easily can all the adverse conditions be cured?
44. Are there patches of moss on the roof? That conceivably could indicate a moisture problem.
45. Are there bird, squirrel or insect nests where they shouldn't be?
Attic
46. In the attic, check the supporting timbers to see whether or not they are sagging. Are they sagging? Look for leaks indicated by stains, particularly where things like the chimney meet and penetrate the roof. When looking for stains, be sure to look behind suspended false ceilings.
47. Is the attic not ventilated? Is there a smell? If nothing else expect your power bills to be adversely affected.
48. Is the condition of the insulation thin or altogether missing? If there isn't any or it is not thick enough, you will certainly want to add some. The higher the R-rating the better. Is there no space between the roof and the insulation to allow air movement?
49. Are there are signs of squirrels or pigeons entering the attic? Squirrels can be especially damaging by chewing on wire insulation. Birds leave smelly messes.
50. Are any beams or joists broken or missing or sagging or crooked or floating (i.e., not adequately supported on both ends)? These are supporting the weight of the building. Sometimes remodelers unintentionally or even intentionally cut right through them. Do that to too many and the structure collapses.
Interior Walls, Floors and Ceilings
51. Are the floors not level? Your sense of balance will tell a lot. Also try placing a marble on the floor to help you tell. A marble will do the same thing. Does it roll by itself? The floor is not level if it does. How fast does it roll? Of course, that level or square you were suggested to carry along will tell you the same thing and more accurately. Is there any bulging or sagging visible? Is there a gap between the floor and the wall? Are there major cracks?
52. What is the condition of the flooring, whether carpet, linoleum or wood? Is it a type of floor requiring future high levels of maintenance?
53. Is the flooring thin, lumpy or missing? Does it need replacing or refinishing?
54. If the carpeting on the stairs needs replacing, remember it is expensive in terms of labor to go around all those little posts on the railing. Are there gaps between floors and walls?
55. How do the floors sound when you walk on them? Are the floor boards loose? Do they squeak? Do the floors noticeably move when you jump up and down? Be sure to look underneath rugs to see what they might be hiding.
56. Check the condition of the staircase, including its railing and posts. Are any portions loose? Are there any signs of rot or breaks?
57. What is the height of the railing and what is the distance between the spindles? If they are respectively too low or too wide, they may not meet code. That might not be a problem if you are continuing the same use and they were legal when they were put in, but it may be required to be replaced if there is a change in the use contemplated now or hereafter.
58. Check the condition of the ceilings, walls and moldings. Are there signs of leaks? Are there cracks, sags or bulges?
59. Are any of the walls spongy or have holes? Are any wet or damp? Do they move noticeably if you push on them? Take particular care in the bathrooms. Don't forget to look behind furniture. Wardrobes might be hiding damages for example.
60. Do drywall or other seams show? If it is plaster, is it crumbly?
61. Are there noticeable nail pops on any surfaces? Will they need refinishing soon?
62. What is the condition of the doors and the frames? Is there no weather stripping? Do they stick shut? Do they fail to stay put when opened or closed?
63. Are they inconveniently located?
64. Are any locks or hardware missing or broken?
65. Are the knobs too high or too low?
66. What is the condition of the cabinets? Are doors out of alignment? Do drawers fail to open smoothly? Are they not solid? Are they out of plumb and level?
67. What are the cabinets made out of? Are they particle board instead of solid wood? Is that important to your purposes?
68. Check the condition of the fireplace dampers and flues. Will they fail to meet Fire Code? Are they not working well? Is there evidence of smoke stains over the opening? Are any dampers inoperable?
69. Are there inadequate hearths to prevent fires from sparks?
70. Are any screens or glass doors on fireplaces missing or inoperable?
71. Is the paint dingy or bubbled?
72. Is any paint lead based? The older it is, the greater the chance it has lead. You might ask the owner. If you do, make note of the answer in writing and save it just in case it turns out to be not true. Removal of lead paint in many jurisdictions is closely regulated and often quite expensive in consequence. You may have to get some chips chemically analyzed to know for sure, but if it is determined to have lead in it, it may give you later problems under the Lead-Based Paint Poisoning Prevention Act if you want an SBA loan.
73. Is the wallpaper torn, dingy or stained? Are any of the seams separated?
74. Are there ceramic tiles or wainscotting on the walls? Are any missing or broken? These are often difficult to replace.
75. Do sounds carry between rooms? Will that be a problem for you?
76. Were the walls insulated with urea formaldehyde? If improperly installed, it may be emitting toxic gas.
77. Do any bedrooms not have closets?
78. Is there inadequate closet and pantry space generally? Understair closets may cause the Fire Department to become alarmed (no pun intended).
79. Do any bedrooms not have windows? Failure to have windows in each bedroom will also cause them to give you heat.
80. Do any bathrooms not have either windows or exhaust fans?
81. Are the sizes of the bedrooms, baths and other rooms too small for all the projected furniture needed?
82. Is the storage and shelf space in all the rooms sufficient for needs present or projected?
83. Do you have special storage needs such as for potentially dangerous items like solvents?
84. Is there inadequate office, laundry, lunch room, retail or check-in space for the business?
85. Are there high ceilings? They make it look nice. What do they do for heating costs?
86. Are the ceilings too low for your purposes?
87. Do you plan to relocate or cut into any walls? If so, are they load bearing ones? Those are expensive to move.
88. Is the room and hall layout inconvenient for your present or contemplated purposes?
89. Are there any bad smelling odors or the smell of dampness, mustiness, mildew, mold?
90. Do you, your family, your staff or your potential visitors or clients suffer from any allergies that might be triggered by conditions on the property?
91. Are any of the doors not wide enough for handicapped access? That might not be important for a personal residence: however, if you are opening a business on the property, it may certainly come into play.
92. What about handicap ramps up to the doors? What about ramps from the parking? Are there elevators or ramps inside? There is more to the whole issue of handicap access, such as signage, strobe light alarms, speech translators, etc., but that should be independently investigated, depending upon your type of business.
Basement
93. Look for leaks and flooded basements. Are there signs of any such problems? Is it seepage, condensation or other source? Is there standing water? Are there stains? Is there mold on the basement ceiling joists? If there have been leaks, rot could result. Does it smell damp or moldy? Is it not properly vented? Is there a sump pump? Did the previous owners need a dehumidifier?
94. What is the condition of the supports for the floors and walls? Is there sagging? Do they appear to be inadequate?
95. Is there inadequate work or storage space? This would also apply to a garage.
96. Is there inadequate lighting?
97. Can rain water come in through the window wells or exterior stairs?
98. Is there no safe exit in case fire blocks the stairs?
Plumbing System
99. Look at the pipes. Are they lead? If they are lead, they will almost certainly need to be replaced. If they are copper or brass, that suggests they were replaced fairly recently. How can you tell the difference? Copper and brass stain to green after a while. Lead is soft and silvery when cut. Iron attracts magnets.
100. Take a look at the floor drains in the basement or kitchen. Are there any? Pour water down them. Are they clogged?
101. Look at all the commodes, sinks, tubs and showers. Are there not enough? If you are operating a business, handicap height, grab bars, wheelchair turnaround and other issues come into play.
102. What is the City or County regulation and tax picture if you decide you must add more or change any?
103. Do any not have "U" shaped traps for drainage?
104. Do any drains not have clean out access to the trap pipes?
105. What is the working condition of the present fixtures and their caulking? Are they cleanable? Is there rust? Are there signs of leakage?
106. Are they inadequately secured to the walls and floors? Do any rock or move when you push on them? Are any not vented?
107. Are there hard water stains on sinks? Do you need a water softener?
108. Are there any cross connections where clean water and waste water might mix in a backup?
109. Do the faucets drip?
110. Do they make a hammering sound when turned on or off quickly?
111. Turn on the shower and the sink and then flush the toilet. Is the water pressure still inadequate? Does the water temperature turn scalding or freezing?
112. Do the toilets flush inadequately? Are they wasteful?
113. Are the toilets noisy? Can you hear water running in the walls? Is silence important to your goals? Open them up and look inside the tank. Is the flushing equipment in poor or rusted condition?
114. Is there no easy access to the pipes near each fixture so that repairs and replacements cannot be easily made?
115. Is the turn off valve hard to find or reach? Does it not work?
116. Where do the drains go?
117. Is the property on some waste management system instead of city sewer? Where does it connect?
118. If a septic tank or leach field is used, be sure to have it examined. Is the tank large enough? Is the drain field at least 100 feet from the nearest well?
119. What is the source of the water supply and what is its quality? Is it substandard on either count? The quality question will almost certainly require an expert's opinion. At a minimum, does it smell? Does it look impure? Does it taste bad? By the way, vision and taste are no guarantees either way. To be completely sure, use a lab.
120. What is the capacity of the water heating system? Some business uses have much more demand for hot water than a private residence. Will there be insufficient hot water for all the possible family and guests, not to mention dish washing and clothes laundry at the same time?
121. Run some water from the water heater tank. Is it badly rust colored?
122. If water is heated by gas, what is the venting?
123. Check the status of any lawn sprinkling system. Is it broken?
124. Is any portion of the landscaping not covered?
125. Is it the right kind of sprinkling system? Lawns require different watering than flower gardens. Sprinkler head height is also important depending on the type of vegetation being served. Sprinklers should not spray the foundation or crawl spaces.
126. Does the property fail Fire Code requirements on fire sprinklers?
127. Find out what size tap there is from the city supply, if it is a city supply. Is it less than 3/4 inch? Is the pressure too little?
128. Where are the emergency cut offs? Are they too hard to reach?
129. Are the tubs and showers missing grab bars or soap holders?
130. Are the plumbing stacks poorly located for potential future additions?
131. The surrounds on tubs and showers ideally should go to the ceiling, although not strictly necessary. Do any not go all the way?
132. Is the surround of plastic or fiberglass? Ceramic tile in that location wears better than plastic or fiberglass.
133. Is there insufficient countertop or vanity space in the bathrooms?
134. What is their condition?
135. Are exterior hose connections unprotected from cold weather?
136. Are the sinks inadequate for food preparation purposes if that is one of the purposes of the space being inspected? The particular requirements will change with the particular use. If it is a restaurant, check with the Health Department.
HVAC System
137. Take a close look at the furnace. What type is it? What is its age? Is it old?
138. What does it use for fuel?
139. Is it not very fuel efficient?
140. How is the fuel stored? Is it insufficient or inconvenient?
141. Are the exhaust fumes improperly ventilated? Do any of the vents not slope up and away from the furnace?
142. What is the duct work like? Is it in poor condition? Is it uninsulated?
143. Are there insufficient radiators, diffusers or registers? Test to see whether or not they are all properly functioning.
144. Ask to see copies of the fuel bills. Are they too high? If it is not a central system, investigate to see if it can be converted.
145. If there is a hot water heating system, check for leaks. Check for noise.
146. Find out how air bubbles are removed from the system. Is it not working?
147. Would it be inconvenient to drain?
148. Are any of the individual radiator controls not working?
149. Can you smell other gas or oil? That might indicate a leak from the system. Where are the cutoff valves?
150. If there is an air conditioning system, decide whether or not it is working.
151. Is it noisy? Are there any signs of rust?
152. If air conditioning is not installed, is it needed in that part of the country? What will it take to put it in if it is desired?
153. Check on the condition of all thermostats? Are any broken?
154. Are the rooms not individually controllable for heat and cooling?
155. Is there no heat in any rooms?
156. In parts of the country where the winters are cold, are any water pipes at risk from freezing?
157. Does it take too long to warm up after the furnace kicks on or cool down after the air conditioner starts?
158. What is the humidity situation? Will a humidifier need to be added to prevent static shocks and protect furniture from drying out? Will a dehumidifier need to be added? If either are in place, are they not functioning?
159. If there is an air purifier, is it broken?
Electrical System
160. Look at the nature and type of wiring in the basement and elsewhere. Is it old splices or old wiring? Does any dangle down? Are there any porcelain fittings? Is it aluminum? Is it frayed? Does any wiring or receptacles feel warm or hot to the touch? Be sure of power status before checking electrical items. Turn it off. What is the wrapping on wiring?
161. Is the power to the building brought in overhead or underground? If overhead, are trees potentially interfering?
162. Will the conduits not be to Code for your new use, if any?
163. Look at the power box. Is it without a closeable and preferably lockable lid? Is it too close to laundry, sinks, water heaters or leaks? Is it a fuse box instead of a breaker box? If it's a fuse box, it may be inadequate and rewiring may need to be done. If it is circuit breaker, does it fail to work when tested? Feel the fuses or breakers. Do any feel hot to the touch? Are any replaced with pennies?
164. What is the condition of the light fixtures and their wall switches. Do they need replacing? Is the wiring surface conduits? Are any pull chain fixtures.
165. Is the volume of illumination insufficient?
166. Do any lights flicker? Do the lights dim when appliances run? Are there insufficient amps for your proposed purposes?
167. Are there insufficient 110 electrical outlets for your needs?
168. Do any feel hot?
169. What is their condition and location? Are they inconvenient?
170. Are there any cords running under rugs?
171. Are any outlets not equipped with grounds? Are they not polarized with one prong wider than the other? At a minimum, any outlet within six feet of water sources like sinks, showers and dishwashers should be GFCI rated.
172. What are your guests' needs. Are they unlikely to be met? If you plan to open a bed & breakfast or similar type of lodging this might be crucial.
173. If 220 outlets for items like dryers are needed or desired, are they missing?
174. Is there no physical space for extra dryers if needed?
175. Are there missing vents for the needed dryers?
176. Is the house inadequately wired for cable TV, stereo speakers, telephone outlets, intercoms?
177. Are there inadequate exhaust fans in the baths? Do the exhaust hoods on the kitchen stove fail to conform to Health, Fire and Building Codes, especially if you have something like a bed & breakfast?
178. Is the garbage disposal, dishwasher, dryer, washer, stove or other appliance broken?
179. How old are the appliances? Will they need replacing soon? Do any leak? Do you get a shock when touching any appliance?
180. Are the appliances not the right ones if it is a business? Check with the Health Department.
181. Is the grease trap, if any, inadequate?
182. Is there no alarm system for fire or burglar? Is there less than one smoke detector alarm in each room and hall? Are they not hardwired? Is there no Central panel?
183. Are there not enough fire extinguishers? How about fire doors, fire exit signs, safety door latches?
184. Do doors open inwards rather than outwards? Do any of the fire protection items fail to meet Code? Check with the Fire Department.
Toxic Waste
185. Check for asbestos and insulation in the walls and around pipes. Is there any? Labs can be sent samples for testing.
186. Consider getting a test kit to test for the presence of radon and methane gas seeping into the house. Is there any gas detectable?
186. Search for any underground storage tanks and examine their contents and condition. Are there any? Are they leaking? Have any EPA reporting requirements not been completed?
The Lot
187. Is the lot too small for off street parking requirements? Will too much landscaping have to be sacrificed to meet Code? If there is paved parking, is the condition poor?
188. Are the driveways and sidewalks in poor condition? How about curb cuts and sidewalk? Is there any significant cracks or heaving?
189. How about lighting and signage? Are they needed? Are they working?
190. Is the lot draining improperly? Are there low areas where water will pool? Will the lawn be difficult to mow or sprinkle as a result? Will ice build up on sidewalks or drives?
191. Is the lot or any part located in a recognized flood plain? The latter will cause problems both on getting loans and insurance.
192. Is the property in an already designated or even likely slide zone, earthquake fault, wind sheer pattern or tsunami risk beach area? Check with the Planning Department.
193. Is the building difficult to see? If you are acquiring the place for business reasons, that might be important. Visibility from the street can be important for "drop-in" type customers to be able to find you.
194. How about visibility of the sign, if any?
195. Is the landscaping unattractive?
196. Are any of the trees infested? Are they growing into or overhanging the gutters? Do the trees and shrubs need trimming or removal?
197. Are there any trees hanging over the roof or, worse yet, touching it?
198. Can trees or bushes be cut without a permit?
199. Is there natural light? If you need a garden area, is there one? Does it have inadequate sunlight?
200. Is the site inaccessible?
201. What is the condition of the roads leading to the site? Are they private rather than public? If they are private, who pays for upkeep?
202. Are they difficult roads to drive? Is it dangerous to turn on and off the street? Are leftins/leftouts unavailable?
203. Are there any encroachments on the property by neighbor's improvements such as fence lines? That might lead to adverse possession claims at some time if the encroachments have been there long enough.
204. Are there any violations of setback requirements, height restrictions, bulk plane mandates, minimum floor square footage or similar governmental or protective covenant obligations? Measurements can be taken and compared to the written governmental regulations and title restrictions? Check with the Zoning Department.
205. Was any work done on the property without a building permit? Are there any violations on record?
206. Are any of the major improvements missing a certificate of occupancy? Check with the Building Department.
207. Is the neighborhood unattractive? Are there lots of graffiti?
208. Is the neighborhood unsafe? Check with the Police Department.
209. Is the neighborhood poorly lighted?
210. Are the neighborhood conveniences such as stores, schools, hospitals, restaurants, jobs etc. too far away?
211. Are fire stations and fire hydrants too far away?
212. Are police stations too far away?
213. How about bus stops and transportation?
214. What is the locale's trash removal system? What does it cost?
215. Are trash storage areas on the property inconveniently located or unsightly?
216. Are any important utilities not in yet? When will they be put in? What will they cost?
217. Are any of the utility or other easements on the property inconveniently located as regards possible future building plans?
218. Is there no room for expansion on the property if needed?
219. Are any of the amenities included such as pools or hot tubs or fountains not working?
220. Are properties in the neighborhood selling poorly? Are many for sale? What are they selling for? How do they compare.
Results
[For each of the above construction items that are answered "yes," discuss the matter with an architect or a contractor or possibly the local building inspector to see if the matter is serious and, if it is serious, what it might cost to correct. Get an expert.]
[When consulting, try to find someone to do it who does not have a vested interest in convincing you that work needs to be done. Perhaps there might be a member of the American Society of Home Inspectors within reasonable driving distance of the property. In any event, be sure to ask about the inspectors' qualifications, whether they have a license from the State of Oregon and whether they have any conflicts of interest.]
[ Special needs such as the specific kitchen required for restaurants, or the specific needs of toxic chemical storage or the needs of the handicapped have not been discussed in any detail. You should do independent research on those. Furthermore, it should be noted the foregoing checklist has been solely to give a general feel for a "layman's" initial look at the condition of the average property. It has not been a definitive or exhaustive list. For that, hire a local expert knowledgeable about your individual proposed use to review the property.]
Good luck in your investigations.
|
